Help for Hyperpigmentation
In a recent survey, I asked clients which skin conditions concerned them most. I guessed that fine lines and wrinkles would be at the top—and they were—but the runner up for women 30-49? Hyperpigmentation. It surprised me somewhat, but after thinking about it, many women I see DO struggle with uneven skin color and hyperpigmentation as a result of fluctuating hormones and sun and heat damage from their beach and tanning bed days.
Hyperpigmentation can refer to any darkening of the skin. Thankfully there is help to be had for the condition, but before we dive into products and treatments for hyperpigmentation, let's dig a little deeper into the topic.
Some of us, including myself, are prone to uneven pigmentation because of higher melanin levels. On the other hand, there are women who have been pregnant and have gone through menopause and have never had pigmentation problems.
If you are like me, you need to ask yourself; when did you first notice it? Was it during pregnancy? Exacerbated by excessive heat? What triggered it? If you know the root of the cause, hyperpigmentation can be more effectively treated.
Types of Hyperpigmentation
Melasma
Melasma, commonly called pregnancy mask or chloasma, is a skin condition affecting over 6 million women in the United States. Melasma can develop most anywhere on the body, but is most commonly seen around the perimeters of the face. Melasma is caused by an overproduction of pigment called melanin, which is produced by melanocyte cells. Melanocyte cells are found in the dermis, which is the deepest layer of the skin. Melanocytes produce melanin, bundle with melanosomes and begin their move to the surface of the skin and disperse causing hyperpigmentation.
The cause of melasma is not fully understood, however factors that come into play are pregnancy hormones, menopause, UV exposure and genetics. Men and women with deeper skin tones are more prone to melasma. Melasma can be managed, however, one can not fully get rid of it.
Melasma
Melasma, commonly called pregnancy mask or chloasma, is a skin condition affecting over 6 million women in the United States. It typically presents symmetrically.
Sun Spots & Age Spots
In middle age, many women, especially fair-skinned women, report seeing sun spots, age spots, and “liver spots” crop up. They present as brown spots and range in size from 0.2 to 2 cm. A common misconception about these spots is that they are caused only by UV exposure. But did you know that the advice to stay out of the sun and apply SPF is not a sure proof way to prevent them?
Studies have shown that the heat is also a contributing factor because it stimulates melanin activity which in turn results in discoloration and the formation of brown spots. This means that no matter how much sunscreen you apply, you can still get sunspots. So, while UV sources like the sun are among the top triggers, there are other triggers.
To prevent sunspots from developing, avoid being in the direct sunlight between 10am and 4pm. These are the hottest hours of the day and UV rays are at their peak. Since sunspots can be heat activated, keep the temperature of your skin cool. Sources of heat can be a BBQ grill, a hairdryer, even the temperature in a hot yoga class! If you know that you will be in the heat, keep a cool towel nearby and mist your face with cool water. This is not an excuse to not wear sunscreen—you still need to prevent burning.
Sunspots
Did you know that heat alone plays a role in the development of sunspots? In my studio I have had great results treating sunspots and age spots with plasma fibroblast skin resurfacing.
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) refers to the dark, pigmented marks that sometimes form after a trauma is caused to the skin. PIH is often the result of acne, burns, friction or aggressive clinical treatments such as chemical peels, dermabrasion, or lasers. This type of pigmentation can improve with time and is treatable with topical products including acids.
Freckles
Like melasma, freckles are caused by melanin. When sunlight hits the skin, the skin goes into a survival mode and starts producing more melanin to protect all the skin’s layers. If you have melanin building in one place it will result in freckles. Freckles may appear darker as we age.
10 Steps to Managing Hyperpigmentation
There is no magic pill that I can prescribe for hyperpigmentation, but I can tell you how you can manage and lighten it. Here are some tips that have helped my clients and myself.
Avoid the sun as much as you can
Wear sunscreen—here are a few of my favorites.
Avoid heat, keep the surface of your skin cool.
Wear a hat and sunglasses whenever you are outdoors.
Exfoliate regularly.
Get a professional facial with chemical peel or enzyme treatment regularly.
Use of the right products for your skin type—I can help you with this, book a consult.
Take a look at your prescription medications. What are the side effects?
Consider Plasma Fibroblast Skin Tightening for it’s skin resurfacing effects.
Use skincare products containing Vitamin C and Vitamin A to aid in lightening. Environ’s Mela-Even System is the one I recommend most for hyperpigmentation.
Up Your Skincare Game, See Results
If you’ve forgotten what even-toned and supple skin looks and feels like, trust me when I say you will smile in complete satisfaction when you begin to see the hands of time turn back a few years and a bit of your youth is restored.
No two skin types are the same and there are never any guarantees when it comes to products and treatments, but I can attest to the fact that the clients of mine who decide to “up” their skincare game DO see results and are quite pleased.